Jorvik

One of Rick Steves top four places to visit in the United Kingdom is York, Northumbria, near the border with Scotland.  Having traveled to all four kingdoms, and several regions of England, we had yet to visit this small university city.  Prior to our main destination, we visited Teigan in London and together took the train north to visit this historic city.  Her boyfriend Jimmy joined us after a couple days. While not planned, or intuitive, it turned out that York has an important connection to our next destination, The Balkans.  

Train ride north to York

Over the centuries the landscape of England has been settled by numerous cultures including a diaspora of Celts from central Europe, and invasions by Romans, Vikings, Angles/Saxons, and Normans all leaving their impact on the territory and language.  There are no remnants of the Celts in York, as there is in the language of Scotland, Wales, and Ireland. However, the remains of the original Roman settlement called Eboracum can still be found. 

Medieval walls built upon Roman walls.

We walked the entire circumference of the ancient Medieval wall

A pivotal moment in Roman history occurred in York.  While the Emperor Constantius was visiting Eboracum with his son Constantine, he died in 306 CE.  Although not in direct line of succession, the local soldiers proclaimed him Emperor.  After 80 years of fragmentation, Constantine went on to unite the eastern and western Roman empire again and changed the capital from Rome to Byzantium and called it Constantinople, today Istanbul.  

Statue of Constantine

Trade between Rome in the west and their lands to the east were connected in the 2^nd century BC by the Via Appia from Rome to the coast of the Adriatic, and Via Egnatia which ran from Durres in today’s Albania, across current North Macedonia, Greece, and Turkey to Byzantium.  We visited many stops of this historic road on our drives in the Balkans.

Map of Via Appia in Italy and Via Egnatia in the Balkans

After the fall of the western half of the Roman empire in the fifth century, Britain was invaded by several Germanic tribes from north central Europe including the Angles, Saxons and Jutes.  The result of this invasion is that the land became known as Angles-land (England), and changed the language to a dialect of proto-German, not one of the dialects of Latin: Italian, French, Spanish, and Romanian.  

Anglo-Saxon Invasion

In addition, the spread of Christianity from the continent made the coastal churches relatively prosperous. This encouraged raids from across the North Sea by the Vikings.  While originally the Vikings came as repeat invaders, they eventually settled as new occupants.  Today the city is named York as a derivative of Jorvik, the Viking settlement from the ninth century.  They left an impact on the Germanic language by adding new words.  

Viking invasion routes

In 1976 during an excavation for a shopping center they discovered the remains of this original settlement and conducted archeological exploration for the next five years to preserve them.  Over 40,000 finds including the remains of humans, streets, utensils, jewelry, houses, and even public latrines.  These are all now displayed in a fabulous underground museum with an amusement-like ride through the darkened space with excellent interpretations, displays and recreated village.  This was recommended by a friend in Anacortes who visited and assured that, while a little “Disneyesque”, it was worthwhile.  I highly recommend it as well.  

Recreated village base on actual foundation and wall remnants

Recreation of lifestyle based on artifacts of businesses.  

While the Vikings mostly settled along the coast and integrated with the local population, the Anglo/Saxons remained in power. To deal with this increasing occupation and threat by the Danes, King Harold Godwinson fought them at the Battle of Stamford Bridge in 1066 near York and defeated the Danes.  While celebrating their victory, Harold and his soldiers heard of another invasion in the south and headed off to repel it.  An event every school child (of our generation) has heard, the battle of Hastings in 1066 the Normans from across the channel defeated the last Anglo/Saxon King.  After the victory, William the Conqueror headed north to York, the last Bastion of resistance, and subjugated the remaining population.  To solidify his control over the north he built two forts, the only city in the country that can boast that.  Subsequently, William the Conqueror added new layers to the language and culture of the English people. 

Cliffords Castle from William the Conqueror

Besides the ancient remains, today York is mostly known for its medieval center, one of the best preserved in Europe.  And now a major tourist destination because of its connection to contemporary entertainment - Harry Potter.  The Shambles, a small medieval district in the historic center with half-timbered structures that are still standing despite gravity seeming to pull them down, was the film-makers inspiration for Diagon Alley (the author claims she's never been there). 

The Shambles

Gravity at work

Unfortunately, popular tourism is not a gravitational pull for us.  All the local shops sold Harry Potter wands, medieval plastic swords, or fudge.  And the meandering public seemed only interested in trivia and the trivial. Nevertheless, we did find an out-of-the-way traditional tea and scones shop on the second floor which was a delightful break from the MOAs.  

Spot of Tea?

Savory Scone and Tea

Robin and Teigan happy to get away from the crowds

One of my delights is finding layer upon layer of history in these ancient towns.  And layers continue to be added today.  Most all churches one finds an overwhelming number of statues of people gone and we have little idea who they are.  However, recently added to the Minster church of York, is a statue of Queen Elizabeth.  Centuries from now the average tourist will look upon the collection and wonder why she's up there.

Minster Church

New statue of Queen Elizabeth for the ages

Our final afternoon here we took a boat trip on the river Ouse which runs through the town.  This showed us contemporary York than historic Roman and medieval walls or commercial tourist attractions.  The water front is where it seems the locals hang out and on the cruise you can see the houses, shops, and running paths where the people actually live, work and play.  

Teigan, Jimmy and Robin going for a pint

Nineteenth century commercial development along the river Ouse

Industrial development along the river

Residential along the river with running path

For tourists York is a delightful experience.  If you're a traveler looking for an authentic cultural  experience or nature adventure (not commercial) I'd look elsewhere.  But still worth a visit if you're in the neighborhood.

Next Post:  The Balkans, Part One – Crossroads.