Western Cape - Part 2

On Friday May 3rd, we rented a car in Capetown to drive one way through the wine country and along the Garden Route to the town of Wilderness located  on the eastern edge of the Western Cape, about 1/3 along the southern coast of Africa.

I took the first leg, and drove through Stellenbosch to our guesthouse in Franschhoek, about an hour away.  Stellenbosch is the more famous town in the Cape Wine area as it was the second settlement by the Dutch after Capetown.  But Franschhoek (meaning French Corner in Dutch) is a small cultural village (food, wine, music, art, etc) and without a doubt the most spectacular vineyard setting I’ve even seen - whether France, Italy, Australia, Washington, Oregon, or California.

View of Franschhoek wine country from lunch

We were advised when planning the trip that you shouldn’t drink and drive in the country because “you don’t want to be in a South African jail.”  We also agreed before the trip that no one wanted to be a designated driver.  So Thom arranged for a wine tour of Franschhoek appellation on day one and Stellenbosch the next.  After checking into our lovely rooms at Lavender Farms (the name captures the setting) we were picked up by Melissa for lunch and a day tour of this wine region.  

Lavender Farms Guest House

After initially being impressed with a wonderful Chenin Blanc from Cedarbrook we soon concluded the style of SA wines is not to our liking.  Almost all the wines had an alcohol or antiseptic finish.  They are also known for Pinotage, their own varietal of Pinot Noir and Cinsaut grapes (Cinsaut was known as Hermitage in SA at the time thus the name).  But, alas, that wasn’t our fav either.  Never the less we had a wonderful time visiting these old Dutch wineries in a fabulous setting.

Dutch Winery from 1692

Tasting with Thom Robin and Robin

On the morning of our second day Robin was getting itchy twitch having not run or exercised in several weeks.  Our wine guide told us of Park Run, an international running group that schedules weekly runs in nearby parks in many locations around the world.  So we all got up early to meet the group at a winery in Franschhoek where a local volunteers facilitated the run.  While the Robins ran their 5k, Thom and I got them coffee for their reward.  When mama ain’t happy, ain’t no body happy.  

Start of Park Run

The day after our Stellenbosch tour we headed off for Cape Agulhas, the continents southern most point, and the separation of the Atlantic and Indian Oceans.  Originally named Cabo de Agulhas (cape of needles) by the Portuguese; either because the compass showed no variation between true and magnetic north, or the sharp rocks which sunk many a ship off shore.  It is geographically important, but visually it’s not as impressive as Cape of Good Hope.  But had to do it.

Africa’s Southern most point at Cape Agulhas

After visiting Cape Agulhas we drove back north and stayed in Swellendam in a sweet, grass roofed, guesthouse run by David and Maura, several generations of British residents.  Not much to say about Swellendam beyond a place to break up the drive, but David and Maura provided another insight into the struggles of SA. They are in their 60s and love SA and vowed not to leave.  However, they have encouraged all their kids to emigrate because of on going corruption, first by M’beki and then Zuma.  Also, they are concerned by the growing political power of the EFF party to challenge the ANC (African National Congress) who’s been in power since the end of Apartheid.  David says the party initials must stand for Everything For Free based on the unrealistic promises they make to the majority blacks.  David and Maura’s concern is that EFF wants to follow Zimbabwe’s policies under Mugabe that allows black Africans to expropriate white’s land with no compensation, and give them 2 hours to leave the premises or be killed.  “We don’t want to kill all the whites - yet” is the leaders comments.  Generations ago the whites took the land from the blacks and developed racist policies to keep them down.  They also spent centuries developing the economy, investing, and creating a personal lively hood.  The guesthouse is David and Maura’s asset for retirement.  Mandela is surely turning over in his grave.  It’s complicated.  

Swellendam Guesthouse 

Statue of Mandela at House Arrest where he was set free
Black family was there to recognize him and asked me to take their picture

From Swellendam, we drove the Garden Route to the town of Wilderness.  It’s mostly rolling farm land in between, and not particularly “garden-like”.  We spent three nights in Wilderness, which seems to be a second home or retirement destination for the whites of SA.  On the ocean side the town looks like a Southern California beach community.   Very contemporary architecture with lots of glass facing the relentless rolling sea.  But on the land side, it felt more like a military compound.  Most developments were gated and walled off with barbed wire.  In the hills above the town you could see black and colored townships and shanties for the workers that service the community. Despite this disparity, all black South Africans we met were extremely friendly, even when not a transaction. But, more on that later.

Our view at Wilderness 

Plattenburg, our furthest east point on the Garden Route

After Wilderness, we and our friends split.  They flew from George, about 30 minutes from Wilderness, to Jo’burg and the start of their safari in Sabi Sands Private Reserve next to Kruger, before heading home through Hong Kong.  We flew back to Capetown to take the Blue Train to Pretoria and The Cradle of Humankind.  

Eratta:  Thank you fellow travelers and readers for noting that Penguins also exist in Australia and New Zealand.  I stand corrected.  They exist on every continent and most islands surrounding the southern ocean.  The Galapagos are the furthest north they are found.