UPPER EGYPT - PART THREE

 LUXOR AND KARNAK

As much, or perhaps more, than seeing the pyramids, I looked forward to seeing these two temple complexes.  These were not built by the Greeks, but during the New Kingdom 3500 years ago.  The Egyptians called the city of Luxor - Thebes, and it was the capital of Egypt during this period until the Greeks established a new one in Alexandria.

Karnak is a large temple complex build over thousands of years by many rulers.  It encloses temples to many different gods with stories of the deeds of the builders.  The two complexes were linked by a 2.7 km road lined with sphinxes.  This was buried in the sand for thousands of years and only discovered in 1947.  In 2021 a grand ceremony opened the new Avenue of the Sphinxes and work is still on-going.  

Karnak temple complex upper left, Luxor temple lower right,
connected by Avenue of the Sphinxes.

I remember from studies the towering massive columns in the hypostyle of Karnak and the grand obelisks in Luxor, one of which is now the center of Place de la Concord in Paris.   The columns and walls were carved and colored in intricate detail.  In their presence, the power they exude from their shear mass and height puts one in awe. Maybe it's an impact of gravity between different masses that, like the pyramids, their they pull you in and disrupt your orientation and comprehension for a while.  What ever the reason, they didn't disappoint after four and a half decades.

A portion of the Karnak temple complex.  
We entered at the bottom through the hypostyle hall after passing through a group of sphinxes.  
Avenue of the Sphinxes is left through monumental wall at upper third.

Entry to Karnak, not the Avenue of the Sphinxes.  These sphinxes are a rams.

The interior columns of hypostyle are capped with an open Lotus Blossoms. 

See the scale of the people.

The columns are beautifully carved and colored with their stories.  Truly amazing that the color is still vibrant over 3500 years!

Even the underside of the lintels are decorated
with symbols of the Ankh, others, and a Cartouche

The exterior columns are capped with a closed Lotus Blossom.  
Even Samsom couldn't push these down.

Monumental wall carving depicting obelisks.

Note the destroyed face and cartouche on obelisk.

Many images and cartouche were defaced over the centuries.  

Some by later kings to prevent an afterlife, some by Christians to defile idols, 

some by Muslims because it's a sin to represent a face, and some by just vandals.  

Ruined entry on wall approaching Avenue of the Sphinxes.

Exit from Karnak complex to Avenue of the Sphinxes.

Avenue of the Sphinxes toward Luxor Temple.

Aries and the Ram.

After our morning tour we were taken to a shop that still make papyrus paper.  It almost became a lost craft as the habitat of papyrus has been destroyed.  The government set up farmers to grow the grass and craftsman to make it and artists to paint on it to preserve their culture and history.  There are of course the ubiquitous copies of ancient art and hieroglyphics but also modern artists.  Just not our style.  However, learning about the papyrus and it's durability was fascinating.  It it still legible and intact after 5000 years.  

Brahim watching soaking, hammering, weaving papyrus.  Very flexible and durable.  
Most in the souks are banana leaf.

After our tour, and only one person buying, we visited Luxor temple in the afternoon.  This is a much smaller temple complex than Karnak, but also very monumental and impressive.  

Sister of remaining obelisk at entry to Luxor.  As mentioned the other is in Paris.

The layering of history.  A mosque built on top of and within temple.

Ahmed explaining carving and stories on walls.

Ramses II is everywhere in the new kingdom.

And then.... there are those coming for something else.  
Or envisioning they are someone else.

The columns of Luxor also have the open, and here, closed lotus blossom capitals.

The preserved colored wall carvings and paintings with familiar gods and poses.

The Luxor end of the Avenue of the Sphinxes looking toward Karnak.

In the middle of the Avenue is a replica of the Pharaoh's boat

Entry to Luxor at sunset.

There are so many more photos I'd love to include and stories to tell that we learned.  But to keep it brief and to keep your attention, I've selected only these few.  To know more I highly recommend visiting this site and others in Egypt.  It will alter you.

Next Post:  UPPER EGYPT - PART IV, Valley of the Kings