The Third Phase: UPPER EGYPT

NILE CRUISE

After we left Abu Simbel we had another night in our hotel in Aswan and were scheduled to board the river boat to depart about 2:00 pm. The morning was our free time. As a group we decided to visit the unfinished obelisk. This is a fascinating artifact because it shows how they actually make these monuments by having stopped in the middle of the process. They were "carving", I should say hammering, the granite with a harder stone called diorite to remove the obelisk from the mountain. (As Michelangelo said, he doesn't carve a statue, he just removes the unnecessary stone from around the object he already sees in his mind. Good job if you can do it.) Unfortunately, a crack developed at the pyramidal top, but with so much work already completed, like good designers/fiscal managers, they decided to just make it shorter and continued working... until the bottom cracked and they abandoned the work in situ.

Catherine photographing obelisk still embedded in the mountain. Crack can be seen at top.

Bill using diorite stone helping to free the obelisk from the mountain below.

After reviewing the quarry the group separated to walk the Aswan souk before returning for lunch and our cruise. This was our first real experience with the Egyptian hawkers. They are friendly, but relentless. "Just come look... no hassle (as they hassle you)... very good deal (as they start out about 75% more than you'll pay)... Hey, good to see you again, I work in your hotel kitchen (they just make the shit up to get you in)... excellent quality! (only to find later they dye cheap saffron red to look better, spray paint brass on tin, paint gypsum replicas and claim its basalt, use banana leaf instead of papyrus, and many are made in China. Caveat Emptor!) While I am generally comfortable with politely blowing them off or bantering as I walk by, several in our group were so hassled by them they avoided running the gauntlet to get back. We found this time and again unfortunately. Even in the city away from the souk, you think they are trying to help you with directions, or ask where you are from, ultimately, in time, they recommend a shop. "My sister works here, she is getting married tomorrow, maybe you come." We were friendly to one who helped us cross a Cairo street. When we got there his "sister" was about forty. He painted Robin's name in Hieroglyphics on a papyrus painting (banana leaf) as a "gift". He left and we didn't want it. She was insulted when we only offered only a dollar just to get away. We left. The photos are the real souk for the local people, not the tourist trinkets.

Lots of metal smith shops. I don't see how they can make a living
having so much inventory in so many shops

Beware of the Saffron. I talked to several sellers and played them off each other.
I finally bought a batch from two different shops. Found out tricks of the trade
as they undercut the quality of their competitors. (PS Iran saffron best, and not all red)

The vegetable and meat markets were the best, and least likely to rip you off.
Dates and sweets the best for traveling

Side of sheep anyone?

Delivery day.

We also popped into a Coptic Church. This is one of the earliest Christian communities. Founded by St. Mark not long after Jesus' crucifixion. The Coptic church is one of the Eastern Orthodox denominations and shares many practices. However, it split from other Christian churches in 451, before the Orthodox split from Rome in 1054.

Interior. Eventually the yellow windows will be replaced with stained glass.

Typical Orthodox church Icon screen. Usually they place a framed Icon at the entry
for penitents to kiss as they enter. Not great during Covid.

I originally wanted to take a felucca boat trip with only limited people down the Nile and was disappointed we were going to be on a "cruise" ship. Being here I realized my folly. A felucca on a three day trip would be very in convenient and uncomfortable. They are dependent on the wind, so no guarantee where you will anchor, they have limited cooking facilities, you sleep on the deck outside only under a canopy, and there can be flies and heat in the summer. The cruise ship was for 150, but being off season we didn't have that many. And the top deck was a wonderful place to watch the land go by as centuries past. We still got our felucca ride on the afternoon in Aswan after Abu Simbel. They are beautiful and graceful ships, iconic on the Nile.

After returning to our boat after the souk, we had a buffet lunch while we cruised down the Nile to our first stop Kom Ombu for a sunset tour. It's interesting that most of the temples in Upper Egypt above Luxor were actually built by the Greek Ptolemy dynasty after 350 BCE. They were often build on the site of previous Egyptian temples. I can't be certain but they have an elegance that is Egyptian worshiping their gods, and refined like the Greek temples.

The fertile land, irrigated by the Nile, glides by while the desert claims the horizon.

Most cruise ships follow a similar schedule going from Aswan to Luxor and stop at the same sites. Our guide Ahmed was terrific at running ahead to get tickets. We were often first in line. Kom Ombu is a unique temple as it is dedicated to two gods: The left half is dedicated to the falcon god Horus while the right side is dedicated to the crocodile god Sobek.

Sunset at Kom Ombu

Fantastically carved columns and walls with stories of gods in pictures and writing.

Descriptive image of Lower Egypt on left and Upper Egypt on right putting the combined crown on the Pharaoh while Horus looks on from the right with Ra (sun disk) on his head.

Leaving the temple at sunset as the crowd enters .

2500 year old mummified crocodiles they revered.

All the cruise boats tied up at the pier during the tour.

After Kom Ombu we cruised a few hours at night to dock at our first morning tour the Temple at Edfu. This is one of the best preserved temple in all Egypt consecrated again to Horus, the falcon. Work started in 327 BCE and continued up to Cleopatra VII. Again Ahmed got us up pre-dawn before the crowd from other ships. However, the gate didn't open and by the time it did we were surrounded. But Ahmed got us through quickly by knowing the ropes.

Early morning crowd waiting to get in. Not a lot of masks.

Entry to the temple.

Typical poses of Pharaohs with arm raised striking down their enemies.

Entry guarded by Horus, the falcon

Interior courtyard

Beautifully carved and colored columns

Colors over 2500 years old.

Another god Thoth, the Ibis god, with crown representing Osiris

(too long story about Osiris and Isis)

Exterior of the facade showing many gods with their various crowns.

Primary Egyptian Gods. Love Nut spreading over the earth in a starry sky!

After our tour of Edfu, we continued down the Nile. As we approached the locks Ahmed advised us what we would encounter as we queued. A swarm of row boats will approach showing their linens entreating you to buy. They will toss up packages forty feet or more hoping to get you to "just look". I had a discussion with an Algerian Frenchman as we watched this back and forth of packages. I thought it was pretty sad they had to do this for food. He just dismissed me that it's their lot in life and they like it. "They are happier than we". Reminded me of Imperial Britain's "The White Man's burden", or that slaves are happy this way. A reminder of how we all see things so differently. I walked away as he kept talking without stoping.