Lost in Translation Part Two - Tokyo and Homestay

Like having synchronized watches in an Oceans-11 casino-heist movie Brynne headed west across North America from NYC while hours later we drove south from Anacortes and Connor from Seattle to all rendezvous at SEA TAC for the ten-hour flight across the Pacific to Tokyo.  Meanwhile, hours earlier Teigan left London heading east across Asia for the same destination.  Arriving within minutes of our scheduled meeting we all joined our tour group in the hotel lobby for orientation to Highlights of Japan tour.  

  

JFK - SEA                                      SEA - NRT                                  LHR - NRT

Wearing a bucket hat and red Intrepid T-shirt and jacket, our guide for the week was Shu, a soft spoken, tall and lean, 39 year old Japanese man.  Besides our family, there were six others.  After introductions and necessary paperwork Shu took us for a welcome dinner to a local Isakaya, a casual Japanese restaurant offering tempura, udon, sashimi, and other single plate dishes family style with minimal space and shared seating.  Robin and I typically order hot sake when eating Japanese cuisine, however, we were advised that is usually poor quality sake. At Shu’s urging we had the real thing - cold; memorable and excellent.

Tour group at first nights Isakaya dinner

This being only a “highlights” tour we will be constantly on the go for a week, skimming Japanese culture and city sites.  We did this without stress as Shu was our zen master.  He moved us along, but we never felt rushed, and he always looked out for us. Our first highlight was to see Tokyo - in a day.  

Tokyo/Yokohama is the world's largest metropolitan population area at over 37.5 million people.  (By contrast New York is 11th at half that and London 38th at 9 m - Seattle doesn’t even make the top 100.) Japan and Korea are the least ethnically diverse countries in the world.  Being tall, white, and Robin blond, we stood out as a grain of rice in a bowl of black beans.  But it had the advantage of looking over crowds to see Shu directing us.

Looking above crowds in Tokyo market Festooned with Cherry Blossoms

In the mid-nineteenth century Japan was a feudal society with many similarities to Europe in the middle ages; feuding fiefdoms, chivalrous samurai (counterparts to knights), and eventual consolidation of tribes under a Sho-gun vs King (see the latest redux of the book on Netflix - excellent).  After being a closed society for centuries, the Meiji revolution in 1846 and opening by Commodore Mathew Perry in 1853, Japan modernized, industrialized and militarized.  The irony is the government copied imperial expansion of Britain, France, Spain and Portugal among others, which threatened the West's colonial expansion.  This ultimately led to WWII.  

Countries conquered by the Empire of Japan

Before the war Tokyo was primarily wood frame construction with paper shoji screen interiors along ancient narrow streets and pathways.  Thinking that their enemy wouldn't bomb citizens, Japan interspersed industrial capacity within residential areas.  In 1945 US strategic command identified areas most likely to burn and targeted those areas with incendiary bombs.  The strikes conducted by the USAAF on the night of 9–10 March 1945, codenamed Operation Meetinghouse, constitute the single most destructive aerial bombing in human history. The fire and winds created an unprecedented phenomenon - a firestorm.  16 square miles (41 km²; 10,000 acres) of central Tokyo was destroyed.  Despite flyers advising citizens to leave, an estimated 100,000 civilians died and over one million were homeless.

Tokyo before WWII

Tokyo after WWII

Because of this modern Tokyo is all new construction since 1945.  Even the historic temples and shrines we visited are contemporary reconstructions.  Many of the attractions we visited in this very urban and dense city were modern malls and mixed-use developments.  Some driven by "instagram" moments.  One of our first visits was to the Shibuya district to see the retail and mixed-use developments.  I think this is on the tour because of instagram postings and popular demand.  Tourists want to see the "Shibuya Scramble",  the world's busiest pedestrian crossing with up to 3000 people at one time.  (Not high on our list).

Seen from neighboring mall

In the thick of Shibuya Scramble.

We also visited several Shrines and Temples that were rebuilt.  The distinction is that Shrines are Shinto and dedicated to a human ancestor or deity, and temples (pagodas) are to Buddha.  As previously written, I am fascinated by the human need to create religions to provide comfort, moral guidance, community, and meaning beyond oneself, among others.  We appreciate the diversity of religions created by different cultures, and then the cycling back to influence the culture. A bit of chicken and egg. 

Japan is the only country practicing the Shinto religion, which does not recognize a monotheistic god, but many deities. Shinto shrines, called jinja in Japanese, are places of worship and are considered dwellings of the kami, or deities. These shrines often house sacred objects (like reliquaries in Christian cathedrals) and are characterized by distinct architectural features including the iconic torii gate, which marks the entrance to the sacred space.  

Torii gate to Shrine grounds in Tokyo park

Shinto Shrine

Incense is burned both inside the shrines and out accompanied by prayer.  

     The prayers are often focused on gratefulness, mindfulness of ancestors, or asking for good fortune.  

Robin pulling a fortune stick at shrine.  

(She didn't like it.)

Brynne rincing mouth as part of cleansing ritual to enter shrine.

Detail of shrine 

Lanterns entering shrine/temple grounds

Buddhism on the other hand is not a religion in that it doesn't provide a god(s) or supreme creator/being, but is a moral code to achieve enlightenment and liberation from earthly desires, and therefore from pain. Nevertheless, Buddha is highly venerated in these societies, as much or more so than a god. 

Buddhism coexists with several other religions including Shinto, Hindu, Confucianism, and animism.  We will encounter Buddha throughout our travels in Japan and SE Asia. 

Buddhist pagoda, often in same complex as temples

During the week tour the group had "free time" in late afternoon to rest or explore on their own.  We were staying in the Shinjuku district near a major train line.  Desperate to get out of the urban jungle we found Omoide Yokocho, known as 'Memory Lane'.  This one block street is a remnant from post WWII when the population was starving.  This area became a black market for food stuffs. Contrasting sharply with the bright neon lights and modern skyscrapers surrounding it, this Tokyo landmark feels like a remnant of old, Showa-era Japan. Rustic, cramped restaurants and food stalls spill steam, smoke and chatter into the passageways as patrons huddle over small tables and counters. It's a place where locals and tourists alike gather to soak up the lively, nostalgic atmosphere and feast on delicious grilled meats and drinks.

 

Brynne, Connor and Teigan in Memory Lane

     Inside Izakaya and Yakitori restaurant on last night of trip

Tokyo is a clean, vibrant, thriving, and pulsing city.  There's lots of entertainment, shopping, and dining. With only one day here I'm sure we didn't even scratch the surface (we will visit one more day at the end of our Japan travels).  But for me I think is it more a young persons city because of those very qualities.   However, our next day provided a unique contrast, and for all of us, a favorite part of the trip.  A homestay in rural Japan and tea plantation.

Japan has one of the most efficient public transportation systems in the world.  The only confusing aspect is different trains are owned by different companies so you need to be careful about whose pass you are using.  But Shu managed all this for us;  he gave our tickets before we passed the turnstile and took them back after entering (to be sure we didn't lose them). The next morning Shu had us up early and hustled to nearby Shin-juku station to board the Shin-kansen or as known in english, the bullet train.  The prefix Shin is often used in Japanese and means "new", which many things are after the war.  

At station ready to board.

Mt Fuji San at 12,388' from Shin-kansen.

After train and bus we arrived in Kawane in mountains of Japan.

Tea Plantation, Kawane

Sampling various green tea qualities

When planning we thought the timing of the trip perfect for cherry tree blossoms.  However, in Tokyo due to the exceptionally wet and cool spring, they were all delayed about a week or so.  However, arriving in the Kawane valley the trees were just budding out.  

Connor, Teigan and Brynne

After the tea plantation visit we were picked up by our homestay host Sho San for a walk amid cherry blossoms then taken to his a 100 year old house along side the river.  This is a traditional farming residence of the time, with wood joinery, shoji screen walls and tatami mats with futons in the bedroom.  

Main living area and sitting on the floor dining.

Futons on tatami mat for the three girls.

Host Sho San Cooking

Putting guests to work making gyoza.  

Besides operating the guesthouse, he keeps occupied in this remote location by playing a Shami Sen (Three stringed instrument) and reading Manga books.  From Shu I learned that manga books, which most uninformed westerners refer to as comic books instead of graphic novels, underestimates their sophistication in story telling and art.  In Japan, people of all ages and walks of life read manga. The medium includes works in a broad range of genres: action, adventure, business and commerce, comedy, detective, drama, historical, horror, mystery, romance, science fiction/fantasy, erotica, sports among others. They originated in the nineteenth century and are now produced worldwide.

Sho San playing Shami Sen

Manga Collection

Next Post:  Mishma/Brynne's birthday, Kyoto/Robin's birthday, and Osaka.  

Lost in Translation - Part One, Planning

For Robin’s 70th birthday we decided a redux of her 60th by traveling with all three "kids" (now adults) to celebrate her’s, and Brynne’s 30th two days before.

As we plotted options last fall we considered East Africa, India, Japan, and tropical islands, running the gamut from adventure to just relaxing. Our goal was to introduce them to non-European cultures and navigate the uncertainties of travel in undeveloped countries. However, after discussing over the holidays we realized they each have different levels of interest, tolerance and time off. 

We selected Japan because it is non-European for different cultural experience, but it is also very developed for ease of travel. We would go with a guide which would make in-country travel easier where we can’t speak the language, or even read signs, and I wouldn’t be responsible.  Also, because despite transiting through Narita international airport over 60 times I’ve never been to Tokyo, and Robin hasn’t been in almost 50 years. After a week Connor and Brynne would return home.  

Intrepid Tour from Tokyo to Osaka

Teigan wanted to stay a little longer having traveled so far from London so we added another week with her before she returned. This would be self-guided and include going to the west coast on the Sea of Japan and cross the mountains back to Tokyo to see less developed parts of Japan. 

Inside Japan self guided tour of Japan

Since we were “in the neighborhood”, as my former CEO used to say, and Robin had never been to Vietnam, we decided that after Teigan left we’d travel ten days on a tour from Saigon to Hanoi. Finally, our plan was to spend five days on our own in the mountain town of Sa Pa, Vietnam and I booked our return flights accordingly. 

Intrepid Tour of Vietnam

Then I read an article about Laos. This was the last SE Asian country we both hadn’t been too. We decided to do that instead. Unfortunately, I couldn’t change our return flight so we had limited time and just visited historic Luang Prabang, another UNESCO site. From there it would be a long roundabout way back. Luang Prabang to Hanoi to Ho Chi Minh City to Tokyo to Seattle.  38 hours door to door.

Return Flight path.   Overnight (four hours) in Saigon

For the next month I did detail planning and made reservations.  Five people from three different cities in two different countries all arriving in Tokyo on the same day. Then three different return dates.  We used four tour companies; two in Japan, one each in Vietnam and Laos.  In the end twenty individual flights, though most tickets were in pairs. 

The Baltic - Part Six, Lithuania

Lithuania is the only country on our travels this trip, before Sweden, that was independent before the end of WWI.  And my goodness, it was a significant country.  In my blog about Poland I mentioned that in the seventeenth century the Polish/Lithuanian commonwealth was the largest and wealthiest country in Europe.  It was an alliance to defend against the growing power of their neighbors Russia and Sweden.  But before that Lithuanian on its own was the largest and wealthiest country in Europe.  It spanned from the Baltic Sea to the Black Sea; from current borders to the gates of Moscow, parts of Poland, western Ukraine including Kiev, and all Belarus and Slovakia.

Lithuania at its maximum territorial size

On leaving Liepeja, Latvia we again faced inland to cross the boarder and visit Zemaitijos National Park.  The centerpiece of this Park is a lake.  By comparisons to our National Parks, most of those in the "Baltics" might qualify as a State Park, and not much more.  But these countries are tiny compared to the US and they are quite proud of their natural environment, so we wanted to visit as many as we could.

Shore walk along Zemaitijos N.P.

After an afternoon walk along the lake we headed back to the coast and the city of Klaipedia at the entrance to the Couronian Spit.   As previously mentioned, Couronian Spit is named after an indigenous tribe of the Baltic.  It's a thin barrier of sand about 60 miles long and less than 1/2 mile wide shared by Lithuania and the Russian Territory of Kaliningrad, formerly Konigsberg under Germany.  It's about the twice the length of Fire Island off Long Island, NY and a quarter the Outer Banks off North Carolina.  All are about the same width.  

Curonian Spit split between Russia and Lithuania

Klaipeda waterfront restaurants along entrance from the Baltic to Curonian Lagoon

Shipping to and from Russia through Curonian Lagoon

From Klaipeda we drove to the boarder of Russia Kaliningrad and the resort town of Nida.  It was pretty quiet this time of year, but charming.  One could see that in warmer months it would be quite delightful.  Sandy beaches, charming cottages, and dune walks.  

Waterfront walk along Nida.  

Trail through coastal forests to the sand dunes

Overlooking sand dunes and trails which are constantly modified by the winds.

French author and philosopher Jean Paul Sartre 

was a frequent visitor as the area is conducive to contemplation.

Tombstones above a village complete swallowed up by shifting sands.

Photo of photo of traditional festival every year.  

After our two night stay on the spit, we headed back toward Klaipeda and inland toward Vilnius to stay in the former capital Kaunas, the second largest city in Lithuania.  This was supposed to be just an overnight stay to break up the drive, but the city turned out to be quite charming with a lot of history as the capital and center of resistance to multiple occupations.  

The main pedestrian promenade becomes a street fair once a year - while we were there. 

Street food for the fair.

Christ's Resurrection Church build during the interwar period when Kaunas was the Capital.  

In the Book Smugglers Yard (plaza) commemorating Lithuania's attempt to maintain their written language during Russia's occupation and ban on the local language there is a statue of the Sower of Seeds installed in the thirties.  A local graffiti artist added stars to the wall behind which makes no sense during the day.  However, at night with the statue illuminated he becomes "The Sower of Stars".  Pretty cool.  The City painted over the stars as vandalism, but by popular demand they returned and are now celebrated.

Local maintenance worker with Sower of Seeds in daylight...

becomes the sower of stars at night.  

A small courtyard surrounded by apartments which was transformed by 

mural artist into a community similar to Christiana is Copenhagen

Many portraits of residents adorn the walls.  This of a former Jewish resident. 

From Kaunas we drove to Vilnius, returned the car at the airport with no human interaction (all on-line), and checked into our small hotel near one of the city plazas.  If Tallinn was about a preserved medieval core and hi-tech economy, and Riga the regional capital city and historic center and for it's Art Nouveau buildings, Vilnius is a young person's city with plazas, entertainment, and restaurants.  We advised Teigan when we met her in Stockholm that for a short flight from London she and her friends ought to spend a weekend in Vilnius.  It's just a fun city.  It also has great history, and jewish ghetto for us older buffs to appreciate.  

Dinner along happening street scene.  

Restaurants were fully booked, we just were lucky someone canceled.  

Interior of Baroque Catholic Church

Exterior of Orthodox Church

Flower petals instead of rice at festive local Wedding.   

Our hotel on left within historic jewish ghetto.

Teutonic knights at Parliament.  

I collect photographs of strangers that are curious, and

often of the absurdity of modern dating or vanity selfies. 

Girl grooving, with selfie video, in her freeform reverie. 

Medieval Gediminas Castle of the 15th century.  

Grand Duke Gediminas is credited with founding the Lithuanian Capital.  

Below the castle on the riverbank is the cultural center of Vilnius. 

Historic center of the Jewish Quarter.

Similar street during Jewish Pograms.

Commemorative plaques and information boards about the former ghetto and its inhabitants.  

Throughout the ghetto are illustrations from actual photographs from the WWII period.

Bust of 18th century rabbi (meaning teacher) Vilan Gaon of Vilnius, who slept no more than two hours a night 

and would often work with his feet in a bowl of cold water in unheated space to avoid dozing.  

Gaon, meaning Genius, was taught by his rabbi father and gave his first lecture on the Talmud at seven years old.  

Leonard Cohen is the famous son of Lithuania and Vilnius

Our final lunch at our favorite side street restaurant in the former ghetto.