Monday, December 20, 2021

ALSACE

 CAPITALE DE NOEL

From Bourgogne we drove north to Alsace on the German border and the city of Strasbourg, FR.  


As you probably know, over the centuries Alsace and Lorraine to the east have gone back and forth between Germany and France.  After WWII it was "returned" to the French.  Still a very sensitive topic on both sides I found out.  Interestingly, in my genealogy research my 3G Grandfather (that's three Greats) on my dad's side, was born in Gerstheim, Elsace (Alsace) in 1769.  This is just a small non-noteworthy village on the Rhine about 20 km south of Strasbourg.  He immigrated to Neppendorf, Hungary (then Austria/Hungary Empire, now Romania).  This region of Transylvania, surrounded by the Carpathian mountains, maintained a large community of ethnic Germans for centuries until 1989 after the fall of the Soviet Union.  I visited my relatives there in 1980 when still communist controlled; and again in 2007 with Robin, my brother and sister, and my second cousin once removed Maria, whom I met in 1980.  She and most ethnic Germans left Romania for Bavaria after the fall.  Now there is only a museum to that community in a 13th century church where my Grandfather was baptized.  In the museum we found photos of my paternal grandparents and great-grandparents.  Shocking to travel 7000 miles to a small town in a remote foreign country and see photos of your relatives in a museum, even more so of yourself shown by a local relative that our grandparents sent to their grandparents.

2007 photo of my brother, me, sister, and cousin being shown photos of us as teenagers by distant relative who saved them from her grandparents

But I digress.  We stopped in two classic Alsatian towns along the way to Strasbourg: Colmar, and Riquewihr.  (Colmar is shown on map above, Riquewihr is smaller and north of that.)  Both German and French are spoken in Alsace and the half-timbered buildings are definitely more Germanic than French.  This construction type was for the middle class of the time, the burghers used stone (the poor just huts).  It's basically post and beam with diagonal bracing for rigidity.  The infill is called "wattle and daub".  Wattle is a woven lattice of wooden strips, most likely small branches, daubed with a sticky combination of wet soil, clay, sand, dung, and straw - like a plaster.  Used for thousands of years and still maintained in Europe's middle ages buildings.

Half-timbered buildings in Colmar


Hard to see, but many roofs in Colmar are adorned with Teddy Bears

These towns are so sweet during Christmas you feel you might get diabetes.  One WWII note is that the Allies made the conscious decision not to bomb Colmar as it was too lovely and historic, and not that strategic like Dresden and so many others that were obliterated.

Riquewihr

After visiting each town for a few hours, we arrived after dark in Strasbourg, the third largest city after Paris and Lyon.  We found our AirBnB just outside the historic district.  It was our most expensive place, and the least comfortable.  Teigan had to sleep on a fold out bed that took up the entire kitchen/living room.  And it wasn't comfortable.  But it was in a great location.  Fortunately we spent little time there.  

Strasbourg is noted for its Christmas Markets since the sixteenth century!  Thus its brand Capitale de Noel.  Robin's kind of place, she was in heaven!

The historic district is located on several islands formed by the river and man-made canals to channel water needed for their tanneries.  To enter the island markets you pass through a barricade on the bridge where they scan your EU covid app and enforce wearing a mask - and security reminds you if it slips down.  

Bridge over the river/canal to the Christmas markets

Bridges across several canals and the historic German Fortified Towers
with the Cathedral in the background

Gluhwein and Chaud Vin stalls are everywhere advertising
this hot spiced wine in both German and French. 

The food stalls steaming with sausages, sauerkraut, and
spaetzle (a german noodle) with gravy.  

There are laser cut wooden ornaments and shelves of small half-timbered buildings that are incense burners.  There were also numerous stalls selling figurines of peasants, clergy and nuns from the middle ages complete with assorted farm animals.  They come in specific scales with peasant buildings or nativity scenes in similar scales.  "Collect them all".  For a foreigner, pretty classy stuff compared to US trinkets. 

An army of peasant and clergy figurines in all sizes

As we wandered the markets we'd periodically get a vista of the cathedral and its rose window.  It's enormous. 

Glimpse of Strasbourg Cathedral down a market street

It's in a late gothic style and very imposing.  Probably one of the most spectacular cathedral's we seen, and that's a lot. (The interiors less so). The spire is 466' tall and was the highest in Europe for over 200 years.  It's now the sixth tallest church in the world and is the highest extant from the middle ages.   It appears to me that it was never finished.  Most cathedrals of that era have a symmetrical facade, as does the Strasbourg Cathedral below the spire, except it only has one spire.  But in a way, only having one makes it appear all the taller.  

Cathedral up front and personal dominating the market

Our last day in Strasbourg started snowy, but it soon started to drizzle and melt away.

View out our unit window.

Market Square with enormous full tree.  In contrast to what we'll find in Trafalgar Sq.

Next Post:  Christmas from London

Saturday, December 18, 2021

BOURGOGNE, FR

 BEAUNE CHILLING, BAD TO THE BEAUNE, AND BEAUNE APPETITE.

We flew from Naxos to Athens to Paris, took the Metro to the 14th arrondissement (south of the Latin Quarter and St. Germaine) and walked 10 min in the pouring rain to our hotel.  Ah Paris!  Even in the dark, cold, and rain it casts a spell on you.  After shaking off the wet and checking in we wanted a warm, French bistro after weeks of Greek food.  We don’t like the red awning restaurants along Paris’ major boulevards, so we asked our check-in host if he could recommend something intimate to our preferences.  He pulled out a card and said “others’ have liked this place”.  I was skeptical since he had a stack of their cards.  We walked to the major thoroughfare and sure enough it was under a red awning.  “Non!”.  (Ticked me off that we asked for a recommendation to avoid this kind of place, and because he gets a kickback, that’s exactly what he recommended).  We passed a small poisson restaurant with condensation fogged windows on a side street and went in.  Delightfully Parisian!

 

Before Teigan arrived the next morning we walked the two miles to Notre Dame.  The entire block is fenced off with photos, cartoons, and diagrams to repair after the 2019 fire. Quite the process. 

The spire collapsing on fire in 2019

It's taken several years just to stabilize the building and then clear it.  It was scaffolded at the time of the fire which it melted and fused.  Many blocks were threatening to collapse so they used robotics to clear debris before stabilizing them.  They document each stone and statue they remove and conserve it.  Now they are in the process of building the wooden arches that will support the flying buttress stones until it's all self supporting.  Then the'll tackle the "forest", the timber framed roof.  Quite the tragedy but not unlike what many cathedrals have gone through over the centuries.  We are just a witness to history.  


Notre Dame sans Spire and with explanation
Notre Dame new buttresses on wooden jigs


One personal reflection is comparing it to rebuilding damaged Chartres Cathedral.  After lighting destroyed one of its spires in 1506, they rebuilt it some 300 years after the original construction.  Of course by then there was a different Gothic Style.  So the cathedral is famous by embracing the styles in which is was built and rebuilt.  Today the plan is to replicate Notre Dame's spire exactly - I wish it would have been done to reflect our century.  

Chartres Cathedral with 1506 spire on left and 12th century on right.


Teigan met us at our hotel and we walked to the rental car at the train parking structure. After far too long to process us we left the city.  Driving out of Paris it was nice having three navigators: Teigan, Robin, and Sari from Google.  We only missed a few turns.  After driving for three and a half hours through the wind and rain we arrived at Beaune in the gloaming.  Our AirBnB, owned by retired Emil, had a gated gravel courtyard for parking (nice amenity in these small towns).  He wasn’t available to check us in so an old woman who spoke not a lick of English explained how everything worked.  Sort of understood.  The location was on the edge of the historic Centre Ville and very convenient.  


Courtyard and gate of AirBnB.  Room on right.


As we walked the town in the dark, rain and cold, our foodie Teigan looked for a restaurant.  With low blood sugar, and getting punchy, the puns came one after the other.  Robin was Beaune Chilled; Bill was Bad to the Beaune (why do I always get this?); and our foodie was Beaune Appetite in the best Julia Child accent.  


One of several plazas in Beaune on a sun break the next day.


We spent the next three days exploring the wines of Bourgogne in and around Beaune.   Most wines in the world are some kind-of blend based what the vintner wants to express in the grapes for the final taste.  Unlike Bordeaux and Rhone for example, Bourgogne region only grows two grapes by law: Pinot Noir for red and Chardonnay for white (there is a third, Aligote, but not much).  Most of the new world wines are called by the primary grape.  In the old world it’s more by the region’s terroir from general region to specific plots or Crus.  I finally got an on-the-ground understanding of Bourgogne’s Terrior and their labels: Cotes, Region, Premier Cru and Grand Cru. To keep this brief, I’ll only say that California has given the chardonnay grape a bad reputation:  It’s oaky, buttery and cloying.  We usually reply “A, B, C” when asked what kind of white wine we like (Anything But Chardonnay).  However, a white Burgundy is crisp and complex.  Fabulously balances fruit with acidity and minerality – the way we like them.  They all are a true expression of their Terrior.  (If you like Calif. chardonnay, please take no offense – it’s only MHO.)  We are also not great fans of Pinot Noir, a little light for us, but again in Bourgogne it takes on a different complexity and we thoroughly enjoyed several bottles.


One of many small Bourgogne villages with their vineyards sleeping.

While staying in Beaune we visited Dijon, famous for its mustard. While we think of Grey Poupon as Dijon it’s not made here but near LA.  However, the recipe was originally from Dijon developed by an Englishman (Mr. Grey) and a Frenchman (Monsieur Poupon).  France's main brand is Maille, which is owned by Unilever, a client of Teigan’s firm. She says they pronounce it “My”.  


Teigan bundled in front of Maille store.  Very Spicy mustard.


The city has a great history as the Duchy of Bourgogne from the 12th to the 16th centuries and a fabulous Beaus Arts Museum in one of the palaces.  The Centre Ville is a UNESCO site.  They also have a Hotel-dieu - Hospice of Beaune.



The Hospice for the poor was built by a wealthy trader in the Middle Ages. The poor suffered terribly after the 100 years war and plagues.  He donated the funds toward the end of his life and I think he wanted some good deed on his ledger as he looked toward his maker.  The roof is typical colored tile of the region and the interiors are splendid.  As they lie in bed (two to a bed) the altar is in front of them so they don't have to get up to go to mass.  Very considerate.


The three of us reflected in a plaza tree ornament with the palace in the background.

Next post:  Alsace

Monday, December 13, 2021

TRAVEL IN A TIME OF COVID

DECISIONS AND ADAPTATION


(Warning:  No photos, but hopefully interesting information)


With the recent increase of Delta cases in the EU, and the emergent new variant Omicron, several have expressed concern regarding our safety.  Before we decided to travel, we spent a lot of time thinking about risk, planning, and managing a trip during this time. Hopefully, sharing our thoughts will put your minds at ease, and maybe open up options for you.  


It's been two years of discovery and adaptation for scientists, governments, and individuals.  People’s responses have been along a bell curve.  Some residents in our city had groceries delivered, never left the house, or wore masks even when alone in their car; while others have refused to wear them, and even sued governments about vaccinations.  (They are the ones overwhelmingly hospitalized and dying now.)


Like most of you, through 2020 we hunkered down and adhered to protocols.  Lots of cooking, baking, on-line learning, and hiking.  We did not eat out, travel, or visit family and friends except remotely on zoom.  By Christmas last year Bill’s hair grew longer than since college. However, we did leave the house for grocery shopping, and when outdoors away from others we did not wear a mask.  


In January and February this year, we were among the first to get our two vaccine shots, and were also early for our booster in August.  Our decision to travel after we sold our house considered the options:  we could hunker down in a small rental apartment in Seattle without our personal possessions (all in storage) and no end of the virus in sight.  Or we could travel (with fewer tourists) and celebrate the holidays with the kids in London, where Teigan lives, if we manage the risk.  Throughout Canada and the EU we felt liberated knowing everyone indoors had to show their vaccination cards. Of course, there is a chance someone vaccinated could have a breakthrough without symptoms, but that seems remote in small gatherings.  With low vaccination rates in the US and world-wide, and emerging variants to the virus, we figured at some point we are going to have to adapt and get on with our lives - with caution. 


Because countries seem to go through waves of infections, and the virus keeps changing, we knew whatever we planned we’d have to adapt to facts on the ground. After Greece, we planned to meet Teigan in Germany to see Bavarian Christmas Markets and visit my distant cousin Maria, before heading to Strasbourg, FR.  While in Greece, Germany exploded with new Delta cases, again mostly their unvaccinated right.  Germany shut down the markets and changed their travel guidelines.  They required quarantining for ten days from hot spot countries like Greece, regardless of vaccination status.


Again, we considered our options.  One of my perspective-altering experiences doing international work was when I was in Manila our CEO told me “as long as you’re in the neighborhood why don’t you see…” such and such client in Thailand, China, Korea or wherever.  It's low additional cost considering the expense just to get overseas.  The world starts looking pretty small with that attitude.  After Germany closed to us, we considered Prague, Dubai, Tunis, Egypt, Canary Islands, etc.  Since we still had reservations in Strasbourg for their Christmas markets, we only needed to fill four days; so we settled on Beaune, France.  It was a middle driving distance from Paris to Strasbourg, and would make a nice off-season wine tour of two famous appellations: Bourgogne and Alsace.  We canceled the flight from Athens to Munich and rooms in Munich and Wurzburg.  We booked a flight to, and one night in, Paris.  The next day Teigan arrived and we drove to Beaune.


While in France the Omicron variant was discovered in the UK - our next destination.  At first there was lots of uncertainty regarding infectiousness and serious illness.  Boris responded more appropriately than a year and a half ago and began implementing requirements for international travelers and residents.  Though we were concerned the UK might eventually shut down despite Boris' pledge not to, we decided to continue to France until more was known.   The UK did not require masks or showing vaccine cards in public spaces when we arrived on Saturday.  Monday, he announced that both are required (but his own conservative party is against this).  To get in we had to take a test before arriving (negative) and immediately after arriving (negative).  


Here are some of the documents we needed to complete before, during, and after entry in the countries we planned to visit.  The airlines check these documents before issuing a boarding pass.  IF you plan to travel, some of the airlines (Delta and KLM) issue very good information about the country's requirements with links to complete the necessary paperwork.  It continually changes so do not rely on my list.   


Amsterdam Transit:  2 dose Vaccination Card, Health Declaration form, and Quarantine Declaration form.

Greece:  2 dose Vaccination Card, Passenger Locator Form (PLF).

Germany:  2 dose Vaccination Card, PLF. (This was changed to a 10-day quarantine if coming from hot spot.

France:  2 dose Vaccination Card, No Contact Declaration form.

UK: 2 dose Vaccination Card, PLF, Negative Covid Test 48 hours before flight (we did this in Strasbourg), Proof of ordering a Covid test kit, submit Covid test in UK within two days of arrival. 


In France we were able to convert our US Vaccination Card to an EU QR vaccination code on an app.  This made it very easy to enter restaurants and museums with a scan of our iPhone, and eliminated questions about the US card.  Right now we are not sure yet about a UK QR code.


If you’re considering travel during Covid be sure to have travel insurance.  No one is offering refunds now like 2020: not airlines, not hotels, not AirBnBs. You can buy travel insurance for each trip, but it usually runs about 10% of your total trip cost. For most of our travel we book everything.  We pay an annual fee through Chubb that covers all our trips in a year.  My primary financial concern is emergency medical evacuation, which is covered up to $50,000.  The tours, hotels and airfares are covered up to a max of $2500/individual.  They also cover personal loss, like the iPhone lifted from my pocket in Senegal in 2019.  


Final Note:  Managing risk does not mean eliminating it.  We are carefully watching as the Omicron variant surpasses Delta in the UK and EU in a matter of weeks.  One positive potential is that if it is less serious and out competes the more deadly Delta variant in the population it could lower the impact on healthcare workers and hospitals.  On the other hand, we could be "locked down" in the UK.  We still think it’s preferable for us to be here right now than in a Seattle apartment.  We shall see.  Thanks again for your concerns.


Next Post:  Bourgogne and Alsace.

 

 

Sunday, December 12, 2021

THE CYCLADES - Part Two


NAXOS

Our ferry left at 15:45 for a two-hour open-water crossing from Santorini to Naxos, the center and largest island of the Cyclades.  The afternoon we left the wind storm had mostly passed; but the air was thick with dust and the seas were angry.  Later, we heard that the storm continued to Turkey with winds of 50 mph that killed four people.

The port was over a thousand feet down the caldera face to a man-made waterfront plaza for trucks, cars, and a few commercial shops.  Navigating the hairpin turns with oncoming coaches and semi-trucks was an adventure only Bill can love with a stick-shift.

Bill driving down Santorini Face to the port the day before departure.

The Blue Star ferry came into port at speed and turned sharply to starboard to bring the stern to the pier. Naxos is a major exporter of agricultural and stone products to the rest of Greece and the world.  In the wind and rain passengers were corralled on shore in groups and directed to inside escalators that whisk you up several levels.  The comparison to WA state ferries is like comparing Light Rail to the Orient Express.  

Ferry coming into Port.  Note listing to port

Designed for long haul transit there was a reception area for sleeper cabins, a bar lounge, several restaurants, and a tastefully appointed lobby with sofas and tables to watch the scenery go by. In off-season it was delightfully quiet and empty. 

Bill with view of dust, wind and waves

We staked out our sofa and table and commenced our separate activities.  After four months together in small spaces, we've learned to give each other room.  As we left port, the calm waters inside the caldera gave way to froth covered waves and blowing spume.  Such a large ship barely rolled, although it did periodically shudder.  The waves and the shuddering caused Robin anxiety like plane turbulence. Being across the table from me hand-holding was not an option. Having crossed the Drake Passage to Antarctica Bill took a nap; Robin chose not to look out the window. We arrived after dark in Naxos.  Not a phrase used very often for Greece, but the ferry transit was an example of efficiency and quality service.  

It was a classic arrival by sea. Passengers were disgorged from the ship and walked toward the harbor lights on a wide pier filled with vehicles, and export and import goods. It felt like real working people lived here. I instantly liked it.  Google said our AirBnB was only a three minute walk away. The map took us down narrow stone pathways inaccessible by cars.  The closeness of buildings caused Google's marker to be very skittish and unreliable.  I finally had to call; in broken english we got the directions - sort of.  After three calls and help of a local resident we found the place.  The building was in labyrinth of cobbled paths.  The room was on the second floor, nicely appointed and had a terrace over looking courtyards and paths, looking directly at white buildings only feet away, but it was delightfully Greek - and quiet.

Narrow cobbled path near our apartment

Our first day we explored Chora (also Hora, common name for the largest town center).  The harbor and the next couple pedestrian streets were geared toward tourists with tavernas, artisan shops, and greek specialties.  Most of the harbor restaurants, and all the back streets, were closed for the season. Too bad as the interior Tavernas all looked quaint and charming.  The rest of the city is a real town with schools, gas stations, auto repair, commercial.  We got a coffee from Angela, our barista at the far end of the harbor - our soon to be morning stop and friend.  (Our last day she gave us free coffee and we gave her some groceries we couldn't use).

For the first time on this trip we found Classical Greek temples.  Overlooking the west end of the harbor where we arrived is the Portara, the entry frame to an ancient temple to Apollo from 6 BCE.  The tyrant intended it to be the biggest and best of its time, however, the temple was never finished after he was disposed, and only the frame and foundation remain.  Facing the setting sun it is spectacular in the evening.

Town of Chora to the left, ferry to the right, and Portara in Center.

Setting sun through the Portara

The second day we rented a car and explored the island.  The first stop was to the archeological site of Viroulas, Sangri. Originally built in 530 BCE as temple to Demeter, the goddess of harvest and agriculture, to ensure the fertility of the land - they were farmers!  By 400 AD the newly powerful Christians persecuted the pagans - typical, the persecuted becoming the persecutors. By 600 AD it was demolished and reused to make a Basilica which was later enlarged.  The restoration is interesting in that they reconstructed key forms of both religious buildings without prejudice.  

Temple to Demeter.  The columns on left were reused in the Basilica
and on the ground to the left is the foundation of semi-circular apse.

Throughout our travels, from the Caucasus to the Balkans to Italy, we encounter this layering of history and religions.  In Georgia an orthodox Basilica was built over a pagan ritual sacrifice site (skelton still visible in the foundation window), in Naples a church's facade is four greek columns and a pediment from a temple, the marble of St. Peters in Rome is from the Coliseum, and of course Haigh Sofia was a church before the 1435 conquest of Constantinople by the Ottomans when it was converted to a mosque.  

After our temple walk we explored "the villages", as they are referred to.  Lovely little hamlets clinging to the hillside or nestled in valleys in the mountains along the eastern edge of Naxos.  Most of them had only one or two tavernas, which were closed for the season, but the largest village of Filoti had a couple open. The mountain villages are noted for their meat dishes, so we had several kabobs and a wonderful tomato, peppers and feta baked stew.  We also checked out a couple of trailheads for our next day's hike up Mt. Zeus (Mt. Zas in Greek). 

Mountain town of Filoti

Taverna in Filoti

Orthodox church on rocky hill in Mountain Villages

Our final day in Naxos we drove back to Mt. Zeus trailhead at a modest chapel.  Mt Zas is claimed to be the birthplace of Zeus.  It's also the highest mountain in the Cyclades so we had to do it. The trail was rocky and wove through goat herds, donkey pastures, and olive trees surrounded by stone walls gleaned from the fields over the centuries if not millennia.  


Bill with very friendly donkey who came right up to be stroked.

As we climbed over 1000' the scrubby landscape became just ankle twisting rocky.  When we reached the summit ridge, the wind became intense and gusty, at one point literally blowing Robin over.  We considered turning back only a couple hundred feet from the summit it was so strong.  But looking around we descend into a gulch on the leeward side of the ridge out of the wind.  Thus we continued our ascent.  At the summit marker the view was spectacular with all the cyclades islands laid out before us, and the wind kindly calmed down.  

Bill on Leeward side of ridge with Summit in distance.

View from Mt. Zas.

After our descent we drove through winding roads to other villages and discovered a mountain being removed for its marble.  The marble here has been excavated for millennia and is still a major export.  In the evening we enjoyed our last greek meal with a bottle of their excellent white wine. 

Marble mountain being carved up over the millennia.

Our next day we were supposed to fly to Munich and meet Teigan for the Christmas markets in Germany. But several days before Germany required all visitors, including vaccinated, to quarantine for ten days.  So we had to make adjustments.  The next blog will be about Travel in the time of Covid (Delta and Omicron). How to navigate the requirements and be safe - and flexible. 

Tuesday, November 30, 2021

THE CYCLADES - Part One

SANTORINI

Apologies to readers of the last blog.  Crete is not in the southern Aegean but separates the Libyan Sea off the coast of Africa from the Sea of Crete to the north.  

The next leg of our journey was to the Cyclades, which separates the Sea of Crete from the Aegean Sea.  This archipelago has been inhabited for millennia.  Herodotus writes of these separate island states in his Histories as allies of a pan hellenic resistance to the Persian conquest of Ionia (today the Turkish coast of the Aegean).

The Cyclades are centered around the Island of Naxos
and Santorini is just below Naxos.

Signature among these islands is Santorini (called Thira in Greece); on the list of any must see travel locations.  I generally avoid these locations, at least during their peak season, as they are commercialized and loved to death.  Santorini (name comes from Saint Irene) is a volcanic caldera; remnant of a massive explosion ejecting 86 cubic kilometers (ckm) of material - one of the largest in history; magnitudes larger than Mt. St Helens, WA (. 25 ckm); Mt Pinatubo, Philippines (5 ckm); or Krakatoa in Indonesia (21 ckm).  There were few larger in world history: Mazama, OR (112 ckm) and Yellowstone, WY the grand-daddy of them all had one almost 2500 ckm!  It is speculated that the Thira explosion in 1600 BCE contributed to the collapse of the Minoan culture on Crete, 60 miles away; blanketing the island with ash, killing crops, and causing mass starvation and exodus.

Today the island is an insta-gram destination.  The defensive architecture to resist Ottoman invasions by moving from the coastal plain up to the rim of the caldera, massing all their buildings together and down inside the caldera, and painting them white to reflect the sun has created iconic images that everyone must capture (including us).

Iconic blue Orthodox Church Domes on Santorini

Fortunately, we avoided the summer when MOAs crush the narrow streets and overlooks with selfie takers, the nouveau riche of the East pose for wedding photos with fans blowing chiffon and coiffed hair, and the rooms along the caldera buzz with thumping "music".  It can take hours to get a restaurant table, when done you're hustled out for the next in line, and hawkers are everywhere to squeeze out the last euro for some meaningless memorabilia. Everything is transactional. Even the workers we did speak with hate it, whether 30 year residents or newly arrived from Albania.  

In the summer there are 3 - 4 ferries/day from Crete to Santorini and the fast one takes only two hours. In off-season there is only one ferry per day and that takes over 6 hours. So we chose to fly from Crete to Athens and then back south.  We arrived at our unit hugging the cliff in the main town of Fira.  It was dark so there was no view to be had, and the wind was ~25 mph driving the volcanic grit in our eyes and creating dust devils on the cobbled path.  Looking for a place to eat we found only one sit-down restaurant open with martinis at EU$20 and main courses at EU$35.  Entering, the thump thump thump "music" brought back unpleasant memories.  When we asked what else was open we were dismissed with "nothing".  We wandered the main street with mopeds, fast food stalls, closed nail and hair salons, and shuttered offices offering tours, wedding photography, and scooter rentals. We finally selected take-out Indian food.  I instantly took a dislike to the place - and we hadn't even seen the view.


Morning view from our terrace

Fortunately, Robin previously read about a 6.5 mile hike from Fira to Oia at the far end of the caldera rim.  We started off in the commercial town of Fira, but soon were walking alone up and down a four foot wide cobbled path carved out of the lava rock or between white plastered walls, with stunning views west to the blue waters, the caldera rim, and distant islands.  Along the rim we could see other white towns like snowfields cresting a mountain summit.  

View of Oia at end of Caldera Rim looking like snow on the top.

Stairs to old monastery on rock outcropping

The weather was perfect for hiking, and we met almost no-one, in contrast to wall to wall tourists a couple months earlier.  With the tourists gone, it is construction season and beasts of burden carry sacks of plaster up and down the same trail.  
Burros on narrow foot path delivering construction material

After a few hours we reached the town of Oia and had a delightful meal overlooking the rim with a conversant waiter, and a bottle of excellent Greek white wine.  

View inside empty restaurant with white plastered buildings cascading down rim.

My reticence melted away.  This organically laid out town in dazzling white with blue domes and winding paths is truly stunning in the sun.  It justifies the hype.  If you decide to go to Santorini do NOT stay in Fira, but in Oia, and come in late September and early October to avoid tourists, but have a few more amenities open.  

We have our insta-gram moment, sans others.

Our second day here we drove to other towns and sites on the island.  Besides a very good archeology site of a Minoan town, the main event is the caldera rim.  

Remains of wealthy resident's house in ancient Minoan town of Akrotiri.  
This was a major trading town with Crete 60 miles away.

The rest of the island is agricultural.  Earlier in the season several good wineries offer tastings and tours.  Greek wine has changed considerably since I first came in 1980.  Then it had a very resin taste (think Retsina).  There are 100s of wine grapes unique to Greece, and we didn't have a bad one.  As our waiter said, "you can have Chardonnay anywhere".

The back side of the caldera is flat and agricultural.  
Mostly grapes for Santorini wine.

Our last night here was another wind storm.  In the middle of the night I got up because a plastic bottle was caught in a gyre outside our bedroom window, and was constantly crashing off the walls. When I opened our door to collect it all the terrace wicker furniture was overturned and blown against our entry.  In the morning, my suitcase that was below a cracked window, was covered with grit.  We leave as we arrived.  Iconic place; lovely imagery; no need to return.

View of caldera in the morning after a wind/dust storm.

All photos by Robin
Next Post:  Cyclades Part two:  The Island of Naxos.