Saturday, September 26, 2015

Cast-Iron District

I know I said "The 'hood", which I consider larger than SoHo, would be the next post.  However, first I want to dive deeper into our immediate neighborhood, the Cast-Iron District.  Almost all of SoHo is included in the SoHo Cast Iron Historic District of NYC, and it's on the National Register of Historic Places and a designated National Landmark. It contains the largest collection of cast iron buildings in the world, over 250.

SoHo is so-named because it is South of Houston St.  That's pronounced How-ston, unlike the Texas city of Hu-ston.  Houston is a dividing line in NYC because south of here the street layout is from the pre-revolutionary war Dutch/British settlements of New Amsterdam and New York.  At that time forts, streams, bogs, farmland and estates forced roads to follow the path of least resistance; they contoured around bogs, paralleled shorelines, and followed old indian trails (Broadway is an indian trail from Lower Manhattan to Massachusetts ).

New Amsterdam

Recognizing that the island of Manhattan was going to continue growing as a port of trade between N America and the world, civic leaders laid out future development in a grid north of Houston to meet the expanding population.  They numbered east/west streets starting with - you guessed it - First Street; and continued to 225th at Marble Hill on the northern tip of the Island (which is actually no longer on Manhattan - but that's a later story).

New York Gridded for the future

By the mid 19th century farmland was replaced by middle class residential for merchants and tradesman.  Continued development added commercial buildings including hotels, theaters, entertainment, and brothels (I guess another form of entertainment).  With the more lively and unsavory character, the residential population moved north again, to Gramercy Park among other developments.  As the residents moved out, light manufacturing moved in - still small scale 18th and early 19th century wood framed buildings.  After the civil war large-scale manufacturing moved in as part of the industrial revolution.  Textiles, storage of dry goods, and sweatshops were the primary industries.  This required new construction techniques to create large floor plates with tall windows for lots of daylight. Remember, there was no electricity so all work must be done by daylight; and it was no longer piece meal at home, but an industry where people "went to work" 12-7-365.


Cast-Iron was a new construction material (though its use is from 15th century China).  It was strong for its weight and size.  In buildings it allowed for multi-story construction, longer spans for open floor space, and tall windows for lots of light.  It was also assumed to be fire-proof, which turned out magnificently false.  Not only did it's low melting point lose strength and buckle when heated, but when subjected to cold water from a fireman, the heated iron shattered.  Whoops.  However, it did have other remarkable benefits for construction.  It is castable, malleable, machinable, and wear resistant.

During the 19th century Neo-classicism/Beaux Art (think the US Capital) and Romanesque revival (think Pioneer square) were the popular architectural styles of the time. The elaborate facades of those designs (cornices, columns, corbels, lintels, and bas relief panels), were carved from stone such as marble, limestone, sandstone etc. and hung on the exterior of the steel frame.  Extremely labor intensive.  Casting the iron into moulds allowed designers and owners a great deal of flexibility to create such ornamentation at a fraction of the cost.


Old buildings were rejuvenated with new cast-iron facades, and new construction made ample us of the material.  Along with a limitation on the building height (a future discussion) created a remarkable consistency in the architecture of the neighborhood.


Next Post:  The 'hood.

Settling In

Our first week in New York City was finding the things you need when living in, not just visiting, a place.  Grocery store, cleaners, hardware store, subway stops, local bar - all the essentials.  When asked where we live, I soon learned that one doesn't say "we live in New York", or "New York City".  How out-of-towner.  New York City is made up of five boroughs:  Manhattan, Bronx, Brooklyn, Queens, and Staten Island.  At minimum you say "we live in Manhattan".  But residents in these boroughs are intensely loyal to their 'hood.  To the informed you'd say "we live in SOHO".



It's always interesting to understand how others see things so differently, or how we see things differently, due to upbringing or training.  As our kids have noted, we can't seem to go anywhere without assessing the design or planning.  (thus none will be architects).  We knew it was going to be a funky artist loft.  But as we settled in, besides the eclectic furniture (that's being polite) and the oddly shaped open space, we thought that the furniture layout made no sense - even for the untrained.  The living furniture was split into two separate areas, with an old tube TV on a stand in the middle of the space.  And the dining room table, with its potpourri of chairs, was the focal point in the prime seating location taking up about 1/3 of the space.

View from Entry with one seating area by kitchen

Dining table and second seating area at far wall

After a couple days having our sensibilities challenged we were unable to resist; we started moving things around.  The dining table moved back near the kitchen counter and defined by a couple columns and art on the wall.  The seating furniture was consolidated and moved to the corner by the window, and the TV was moved up against a wall freeing up the center of the space. This also freed up space for a piano to rent. We then added a desk and a couple chairs by the window.  Ahh.  Sensibility restored.

New layout with Seating in Corner, Dining in foreground, and Desk against window.

To make it feel like ours, we moved the owners excess clothes out of our closet into a spare room, relocated art work, and reorganized the kitchen contents to make it functional - though it's still a bit of a challenge.  How a 5'-4" Chinese woman could cook on a counter that's 3'-6" is beyond us.  It's even high for Bill.

As Robin settled into her new office a couple blocks away, we decided that entertaining some of her potential clients in our loft would be fun.  With the rearrangement, the space could accommodate dinner for 10 or a large-group cocktail party.  However, the assortment dining chairs were really just too funky.  We like the "artist space", but there had to be some consistency somewhere. (like I said - architects!)  So we met with the owner and showed the rearrangement and explained we'd like to either rent dining chairs, or we'd pay half that cost to contribute to new ones.  She was very accommodating and together we went through web sites and mutually selected what the artistic and loft sensibilities required and our mutual budget.  She also explained the "odd" furniture arrangement we found.  As an artist, good light is critical.  That necessitated moving the dining table (her work surface) to be closest to the windows and everything else followed.  Priorities.  There's always a story behind the story.

After the first week we feel settled in - and felt like New Yahkers.  Next post:  The 'hood.

Saturday, September 12, 2015

Loft in SOHO

How do you move to NYC for four months?  Having made the decision in 2012 there was not much to do until we got closer to our departure date.  This past January, I started looking through guide books, discussed previous visits with Robin, and did some web searches about areas.  We're more into experiencing neighborhoods, history, and "out-the-door" lifestyle than being close to museums and theaters since public transit is so good.  So we narrowed our search to the southern, oldest, end of Manhattan - from 14th Ave south.  This includes some classic areas with great restaurants, galleries, and walking streets:  Chelsea, Union Square, Washington Square, Greenwich, West Village, SOHO, TriBeCa, East Side, Lower East Side, Little Italy, NoLiIta, China Town.


We started with AirBnB, which has a nice section explaining neighborhoods.  Through that we eliminated Union Square and Washington Square as either too far north or too student oriented.  Also eliminated China town, Little Italy, NoLiIta as too ethnic specific. Then checked out VBRO, some corporate housing firms, and finally New York Habitat, who cater to mostly european long stay visitors.  I looked at over 100 units and narrowed it down to 15 to whom I sent a request for more information.  Many were beautiful, but WAY out of our price range (15k - 30k/month - no joke), or so small that even for four months we couldn't do it at this age.  (literally 10' wide and maybe 5' of kitchen counter - total) with one window.

With Teigan now living in NYC we asked her to visit four places we narrowed it down to.  One in a mid-rise in Chelsea with a lot of light but near Penn station; one on the Lower East Side but kinda gritty 'hood; one very small unit at a busy intersection in West Village - noisy; and a funky loft in SOHO.  After a conference call with Teigan we decided on the loft brokered by NY Habitat.  Funky furniture, kinda worn, but a two bedroom with large kitchen and fabulous 14' ceilings and full glass wall.  Being from the PNW, light is critical.  And... Cast Iron Historic District - great for a couple of obsessive architects.










Our early morning taxi with extra baggage and check in went smoothly, as did our arrival and transit from Newark to SOHO.



The owner is a sweet asian woman/artist who lives in the building with her film maker husband and their kids.  They are asset rich having moved here decades before SOHO became popular, but cash poor both being artists.

Next blog: Settling In 

Wednesday, September 2, 2015

Bite of the Big Apple

Hi All,

It's been a while since our 2014 Australia trip blog.  Our good intentions to share our exploration seemed to fall by the way of living in the moment (besides we still aren't comfortable with posting our daily lives aka Facebook).  However, since then we've continue this next phase of the journey with Robin expanding her business, Guild 13, and Bill being active on a couple of non-profit boards, learning the US legal system (not fun), while his flying lessons stopped and started due to their travel.

After Australia in Sept 14 we went to Rome with our daughter Teigan, then on to Turkey where Robin's partner Brad joined us.

Efes, Turkey with Teigan, Robin, Brad and Bill

Bill took a trek to Patagonia in January 15 with good buddy Mark.  They did the 10-day circuit around the Torres del Paine massif in Chile, which including the W-trek.  Of course, it's a shame to travel that far and only hike, so beforehand we stopped in Santiago, Chile for three days and flew to Mendoza, Argentina.  From there they drove to the 9,000' pass at the border and viewed Aconcagua, the highest peak in the western hemisphere for a short day hike and returned for a wine tour of the Malbec region the next day.  Have to say - fabulous wines and scenery - and not all nature.  After the trek they went to Lima, Peru with an impressive Gold Museum.  Machu Picchu was just too much additional time - and Robin would have killed Bill if he'd done so.

                                           















                                            Mark, Bill, and Bill (New York friend from trek)

In March 15 we took Connor, Teigan, and Brynne to Paris for Robin's big Six-Ohhhh and then the two of us continued on to Belgium (See the movie "In Brugge" - hilariously dark), Luxembourg, and Iceland (freezing cold).

                                           















                                                                The Clan at the Louvre

Shortly after in May Robin and Bill had a three week romp in the Balkans - the last week Bill's sister Linda joined them.  They traveled to under-explored Slovenia for hiking in the Julian Alps and discovered lost WWI history; basked along the beautiful Croatia coastline with 2000 years of great history; wept and marveled at tragic Bosnia Herzegovina with their conflict and redemption; and whizzed through developing Montenegro - well worth another trip.  This made 61 countries visited by Bill's by his 61 year.

                                             















                                                       Mostar Bridge, Bosnia Hertzegovina

In June we had a delightful visit to Chicago for Bill's sister's 50th anniversary (that's right 50th - she met my brother-in-law to be Bill at the age of 16) and his 70th birthday.  Great time showing the girls my hometown and celebrating this milestone.

                           
                             Lake Michigan Shoreline from the Top of John Hancock Tower

And then a trip for all the Holt/Henry's to Lake Tahoe for Robin's nephew's wedding.  Very well organized, and the weather held for us to take some beautiful hikes in the High Sierras and then celebrate Christian and Aaron's wedding vows outdoors.  Tears all around from the ceremony.  And you gotta love Christian's new last name.  "Christian Lord".  Jesus! - that alone makes the match perfect.  oops.  But all that's so much recent history.

Bill is revitalizing this blog because our current adventure will probably influence how we continue this Third Phase in years to come.  Sept 1, we moved to New York City for four months.  How did that happen you ask?

For the past 15 years either Bill or Robin traveled to NYC for an annual Hotel Investment conference at the distinctly awful Marriott Marquis hotel in the distinctly touristy Times Square.  Two years ago after Bill stopped attending Robin continued while still at Callison.  At that time we decided to stay at the Hilton in Battery Park in the historic and a more residential area.  We had a great time.  Bill suggested "I don't want to move to NYC, but I'd love to live here - for a while.  When your non-compete at Callison is over why don't we spend a fall season here as a life experiment.  You can do Business Development and we will see how we like living for a time in other cities keeping Seattle as our base. So it began to ferment.  Then, as it happened, a year later our daughter Teigan moved here adding another benefit of our trial.  So this is the year.  We'll keep you posted how it goes.


                                                      Robin in our SOHO Loft Apt.