As mentioned on the trip's first post, when I booked the airline ticket to Japan for Robin's 70th I added a second round trip between Tokyo and Sai Gon for a tour of Vietnam. After that our plan was to spend 4 days on our own in Sa Pa, a hill town in the mountainous north. With major flights and tours confirmed it occurred to me that the only country in SE Asia we hadn't been to was Laos. I found a local tour company and began working with them to develop an itinerary for this country sandwiched between Vietnam, Thailand, and Cambodia.
We planned a visit to the northern hill country across the border from Sa Pa with a trip down the Mekong to the UNESCO city of Luang Prabang followed by a train to the capital Vientiane. After determining the number of additional days I tried to change our return flights to Seattle. Alas, all the seats in our class were booked and we couldn't get a flight until a week later. Recognizing that the odds were not good to return to see this last country in SE Asia, and not wanting to add another week to an already long trip, we thought it's better to have four days in only Luang Prabang, than none. We booked a four-day tour of the city and country side.
Like most countries in the world, today's Laos was a kingdom, or a collection of kingdoms, up to the nineteenth century. In 1893 the existing monarchs were unified under French protection as part of French Indochina along with Vietnam. It was ruled by the Japanese during the war and again after by the French until granted their autonomy in 1949, and independence in 1953 as a constitutional monarchy. Their civil war, from 1959 until 1975, ended with a people's democratic state aligned with the Soviet Union until its collapse in 1991.
In the late 1980s, before the fall of the Soviet Union, there were fourteen communist countries out of 193 in the world. Today the last standing are: China, Cuba, Laos, North Korea, and Vietnam.
Laos is the only landlocked country in Asia and is ranked as one of the most corrupt countries in the world. As one would expect therefore, it is also one of the poorest. Food, education and income are scarce. In addition, because of the Vietnam war it is tragically the most bombed country in the world! Over 2 million tons of ordnance was dropped on an area slightly smaller than the UK, while all of Europe suffered under 2.1 million tons during WWII. Fifty people a year are killed from unexploded ordnance.
Land locked Laos
We arrived in Luang Prabang from Hanoi in the evening. As we exited the airport we looked for our guide holding a sign with my name on it. As we approached I thought it was held by a child, or very small woman. Not more than 4'-8" and less than 90 pounds and a sweet face. I felt enormous towering over the person who didn't even come up to my breast bone. Even when we were welcomed I could not yet tell the age or gender. Eventually, he introduced himself as Joy, but his real name was Mr. Somphone!
Joy took us to our lodging at the Maison Dalabua, which means Lotus Princess, in the heart of the city. Several two-story guest-room buildings surrounded three UNESCO acknowledged lily ponds overlooked by an open air restaurant on an acre of lush tropical gardens. After all the hub bub, tourists and urban density of Vietnam, it was a refreshing escape.
Lily pond and restaurant at hotel
After flight from Ha Noi a relaxing and peaceful dinner.
Luang Prabang is stretched out along the Mekong river at the confluence with the Nam Khan river. With a population of only 52,000 it has no buildings more than three stories other than the temples. The name Luang Prabang means Royal Buddha Image. The city is recognized for blending traditional Lao architecture, European colonial buildings, and over thirty Buddhist temples.
View of Mekong and Nam Khan rivers
City Map of Luang Prabang (we stayed in the bend of the small river)
Our first full day started quite rainy as it was the beginning of the monsoon season. After gazing serenely over rain dappled lily ponds during breakfast, Joy met us for a walk through the local market and a visit to the city's National Museum in the former Royal Palace with gold leafed carriages.
Rainy first morning in hotel garden
Rain dappled lily pond
Joy and Bill in market. I always wanted someone to look up to me.
National Museum and former Royal Palace and coaches
From the main street we descended to the muddy banks of the Mekong river. Here we boarded a thirty passenger transportation/tourist boat as the only occupants. Motoring up the river I couldn't help but recall many film scenes set in the Vietnam war; Platoon, Deer Hunter, and Apocalypse Now, as we cruised by sampans, grazing cattle, and houses on stilts tucked into the lush landscape. Our first destination was the village of Xanghai. Due to the fluctuating height and width of the river the village pier extends several hundred yards from the shore to the dock. The pier was built with whatever flotsam and jetsam and scavenged material they could find. Supported and braced with bamboo it bounced and swayed with each step across. The supposed attraction was their homemade Somboun Whiskey, and a special version with preserved scorpions and millipedes. Following our village visit we motored to Tham Ting cave. It is noted for over 3000 buddha statues from eighteenth through twentieth century.
Boat dock on Mekong
Sampan on the Mekong
Joy at village pier
Local village with many temples
Tham Ting cave
Over 3000 buddha statues from inches to feet tall
On return we visited Wat Xiengthong. This temple is a reminder that Laos is culturally more closely associated with Thailand (Wat is Thai for temple) while Vietnam is culturally more closely related to China.
Thai influenced temples
Interior of buddha temple
Lunch with Pho like soup and Beerlao (local beer)
After lunch Joy left us on our own to walk the city. The three days we were there was
Pi Mai, known in English as Lao New Year. This festival traditionally takes place in April, the hottest time of the year and the start of the Monsoon season. This New Year festival coincides with
Song Nam Phra or "Washing of the Buddha". While this started out as a reverential process cleaning the many buddha statues in villages and towns after a season of dry dusty weather, it's now evolved into a water-fight festival.
Throughout villages young and old people splash water on each other, from small containers to pickups with 50 gal drums and buckets to throw water on passerby's. It seems every youth down to the age of five has a high powered plastic gun to shoot water fifty feet or more. A recent addition to the arsenal is throwing shaving cream or smearing baby powder on peoples faces. Trying to walk the main street and avoid getting wet is impossible, though Robin gave it her best shot dodging behind parked cars or stepping in doorways to avoid the onslaught. Eventually, even she was drenched. I, however, embraced the culture and walked down the center of the road. At first I was avoided as clearly not Laotian, but within half a block I was fair game, drenched to the bone, and smothered in white powder.
Water festival with soapy addition
Young terrorists
Knowing the festival was continuing for several more days we escaped the onslaught and hiked up Phou Si Mountain to a Stupa overlooking the city.
Starting up hike to Stupa
Robin avoiding the water fight
Stupa at top of mountain
Women family portrait overlooking city.
Sadly, blocky development is coming
Our second full day Joy asked if his daughter could join as it was her day holiday off from school. She was not more than five and a super sweetie. Despite the language difference she was very engaging and clearly a joy of Joy's. A doting father in love. Our first activity was another excursion, this time by road, out of town. We visited a Hmong village whose main source of income seems to be posing in traditional garb and selling hand made weavings. The Hmong are mountain people traditionally scattered between China, Laos and Vietnam. They are very poor in a very poor country, and discriminated against by the host countries. Many of their community relocated to Minnesota, Wisconsin and California. After our brief visit to the village we visited Tat Kuang Si National Park, 30 miles south of Luang Prabang. While located in the heart of the Lao jungle, this is not a wilderness park. There is a paved trail for a 10 - 15 minute walk past three natural swimming ponds in the river to the view point of Kuang Si waterfalls. Being a holiday, it was crowded with locals taking a family vacation. There was also a bear rescue center to help bears who are increasing being displaced from their natural habitat.
Couple in traditional Hmong outfits
Joy's daughter and I on Tuk Tuk
Robin and Bill at top of walk and Kuang Si waterfall
One of several terraced waterfalls on way down.
After much consideration Bill takes the plunge for a refreshing afternoon
After we finished with our excursion, Joy again left us free for the afternoon and the main event of Pi Mai, the parade. Of course before, during and after, the water festival was still going on.
Washing of Buddha parade
Beauty queen? Not sure of her role.
Many other tribes participate displaying their traditional costumes
And yet, the water fight continues, now using the city fountain
Our third and final day we participated in giving alms, known as Sai Bat or Tak Bat. It is a longstanding tradition in Laos Buddhist culture dating back to the 14th century. It is still daily practiced by thousands of Buddhist monks across Laos today. Every morning at dawn, Buddhist monks and novices in orange robe set out from their monasteries to receive offerings of food from the local people. The offerings consist mainly of sticky rice but may also contain fruit or other sweet treats, forming the monks’ daily meal. With more than 30 active Buddhist monasteries in Luang Prabang, the long column of monks walk silently and barefoot to receive their alms from people kneeling before them.
The entry to the temple is where all the politicians sit to show their reverence.
Joy assures Robin is appropriately dressed and provided with the bowl of offering alms.
As dawn arrives the procession of monks and novices extends as far as the eye can see.
Buddha Bill makes offering of sticky rice
After hedging our bets for a better afterlife we indulged in a bit more than sticky rice for breakfast. We then headed out for our final experience, making pottery and learning about a young man being entrepreneurial trying to help his community and build a better life - with mixed success. The village he lived in is known for its pottery. We were given a lump of local clay and shown how to mould it on a wheel. It took two to throw an object, one with the hands on clay while the other spun the wheel. No electricity and not even a pedal pump. Having never done this I was unaware of the challenge. Ignorance is bliss, so I selected a complex form. I have to say it was quite thrilling and humbling seeing a shape take form by your own hands.
We then got a tour of the community kiln paid for by a UNESCO grant to help develop some kind of economy. As is common with the Tragedy of the Commons, when everyone is responsible, no one is responsible. The kiln has since languished in disrepair after lack of maintenance and village squabbling and competition.
Afterward, our pottery guide made us a wonderful lunch, probably the best we'd had so far in the country outside of our hotel. He said we were his "beta" test to see if we enjoyed it and whether he and his wife could make a business as a restaurant. We were very encouraging as he was clearly entrepreneurial and motivated, unlike the community he was trying to help.
Community kiln falling apart
Our young entrepreneur showing us how to start a pot on a wheel
Robin and Bill's creations
The start of a new business, we hope. Excellent home cooked meal
On the Mekong returning from our pottery village
Farewell Luang Prabang and Laos. Probably never to return.
