Saturday, 31 May 2014
It's an interesting process how one's perspective of a new location takes shape over time. There are initial impressions and comparisons to known places until eventurally a picture unique to itself forms.
When we first arrived in Sydney it felt like Hong Kong. A British veneer lay over the city with images of the Crown, street names like (King) George, and statues of Queen Victoria. Add in a substantial Asian population and the physical similarity of rocky cliffs, steep streets, and small shops tucked between towering high-rises helps complete the comparison.
George St. with Highrises beyond.
Then there's the common association to San Francisco; both modern and progressive cities only about 150 - 200 years old streched along a bay. And, as previously noted, along the Parramatta river it has comparisons to Miami with its residences of modern architecture.
However, Sydney eventually emerges as its own place with its own identity. It belongs on any list of the world's great cities. (Here's that Opinion game again). With over 4.5 million residents it is clearly a metropolis defined by water; wet fingers probe inland from the long estuary creating harbors of pleasure.
Then there are the famous beach communities of Watson, Manely and Bondi. Watson is the oldest fishing village in the Harbor with fantanstic views of downtown Sydney only 20 minutes away by ferry.
Robin and Bill in Doyle's Fish and Chips at Watson's Bay with Sydney in background
Surrounding Watson is the Valculse neighborhood, a hill town of wealthy single family homes (maybe like Queen Ann Hill) with views to the Tasman sea, downtown Sydney, or across the Gap to the ocean - like the Golden Gate before the bridge.
Valcluse above Watson's bay.
Manley is a commuter community only half hour ferry ride away. We had lunch of a bucket of chilled prawns and a bottle of fine dry Reisling at a beachside restaurant before taking a two hour walk along the harbor one of their many "bush" parks.
Bondi could be compared to Venice Beach in So Cal. where narcisisitic men and women pump iron 4 hours a day, and preen in front of mirrors so self-obsessed that they forget their purpose - attracting the opposite sex. This water oriented culture is reflected by the Australian dominance in Olympic Swimming competitions and that Australia is the only other donimant winner of the America's cup.
Darling Harbor is Sydney's Urban Renewal project with tourist attractions including nightclubs, conference center, and restaurants built along and over the water. Miller's Point, at the west end of Darling Harbor on the other side of the Rocks, is a low-mid income community of historic New Orleans style, wrought-iron detailed, houses on the cliffs above the water. However, they are under pressure and threat of extinction as the waterfront has been cleared for a massive new casino, cruise terminal, hotels, for the expansion of Darling's tourist sector. The oldest pub in Sydney, The Lord Nelson is located in this, our favorite funky neighborhood.
Miller Point house with balcony signs "Save Miller Point" from development
Going inland from the waterways are also distinctive neighborhoods. Kings Cross is the Red Light district where Millennial women in their short dresses and "Awesome" attitude attract tatooed dudes wagging their thumb and pinkey. And New Town is a collection of graffiti tagged buildings, tattoo and piercing parlors, and funky restaurants for the alternative hipsters - a cross between Georgetown and Capital hill in the 70s. But tucked along the side streets are charming little bungalows in various states from disrepair to gentrification.
New Town Commercial with Tattoo parlors and needle joints
New Town Bungalows
Finally, Sidneysiders are much more casual - even compared to the West Coast IT culture. And Bondi aside, they generally appear athletic, fit, and beautiful. However, as we shall discover soon, this is not true in the Red Center.
Next Post: The Red Center Part 1 - Alice Springs
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