Robin's natural fear of being eaten in Australia was reinforced by Bryson's book and the book "See Australia and Die". High on the fear index is the esturaine crocodile. The esturaine crocodile hasn't changed in over 200 million years because it perfected two things - Kill it and eat it.
Despite this, a good portion of our Top End tour was in search of these prehistoric creatures. We cruised a billibong, overlooked streams, and stood on river banks (far away) scanning the shore. Robin was right there with the group's disappointment each time we didn't see one.
Small 12' long Croc stealthly moves toward his prey - me!
Warning sign - our guide said not to worry, it was only for legal reasons
Cruising the billibong looking for elusive crocs, but seeing great birds.
Our first sighting was at a road side stop where they had a live croc on display. There was only a two foot high open railing separating us from his jaws. When I came to the rail to take a photo his dead eyes followed me and, e v e r s l o w l y, moved toward me. It creeped me out knowing I was prey.
As we drove down a dirt track in the flood plain a police car, followed 15 minutes later by a news car, raced passed us. It was unusual to see any other vehicle on these remote tracks, and that it was official vehicles at high speed made us all keenly suspicious. At the next cell reception later in the day one of our guides informed us that the day before, on the very river we drove across, a 62 year old fisherman leaned over the rail of his boat to retrive his catch and was "taken" by a croc in front of his family. The police we saw trapped and killed two crocs recorded by the news, and found human remains inside one. See Australia and Die to be sure!
Our favorite stop on the tour was Jim Jim Falls. Our guide heard that this fabulous site would open to visitors that day and we were going. The falls and swimming hole close during The Wet because the dirt road is meters under water. Then, after the region drains, the road is impassable and needs regrading. It was still a spine rattling 4-wheel drive journey. I have friction burns on my knees from bouncing against the seat in front of me.
The other reason they close it is that when flooded the outfall stream and swimming hole are connected to the estuary and the crocodiles move in. Once the flood water drains the stream and pool are sequestered from the estuary and park managers go in and trap "all" the crocodiles before allowing tourists. We were in the first day after they gave the "all clear". Needless to say our group had a great deal of speculation on how successful they were. But there were enough other people we figured the odds were individually in our favor.
Croc Traps - we placed a lot of confidence in these
The falls are 600 feet high (height of the Space Needle) and during The Wet are about 60 feet across. We swam to the base where you can climb on a flat stone under the falls. Close up the smooth flow of the falls become periodic surges, like a bathtub emptied on you at once. Robin was pounded and laughed so hard she couldn't get up.
Terry and Robin bouldering across trail to Jim Jim
Approaching Jim Jim after 30 minute scramble along stream
Swimming hole at base of Jim Jim
On our last day of the tour we still hadn't seen a croc in the wild. So we pulled up to a boat ramp for one last scan. There, on the opposite side of the river over 300 yards away, a croc lay in the water. We all piled out onto the ramp, a good 30 feet from the water's edge and several feet above it, and looked at the beast. We needed binocs to see him. Then the croc must have heard us because with a tremendous splash he dove under water. As we all watched to see where he surfaced, there was a brief flash at my side and Robin was gone. Someone heard her exclaim as she disappeared into the van, "Bill, get back in the water". There are times when confusing left with right, or water with van, can have adverse consequences if blindly obeyed. We never saw the croc again, as they don't attack crowds - typically.
Next Post: Port Douglas - Daintree RAIN forest.
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